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Review for Bar Tartine: Techniques & Recipes
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Inspiring, Uncompromising Cookbook
The philosophy behind this book is immediately apparent: the first 150 pages contain recipes for ingredients, not dishes. But what ingredients! Goat cheese, pork fat chile oil, rice vinegar, Brussels kraut, fig leaf syrup, mushroom broth, karasumi/bottarga(!) An entire other category is powders - onion, garlic, yoghurt, rice koji, kale, parsnip, sauerkraut - that are bright and fresh and perfect for inventive sous vide recipes. One warning though: the recipe for black garlic (put garlic heads in a slow cooker set on Warm, for two weeks) mentions the intense smell: I confirm that it can go through walls.
But back to that mushroom broth: it is ordinarily made with water and a few mushrooms, and is invariably insipid; this recipe cooks LOTS of fresh mushrooms at low temperature for hours then extracts all the liquid from them, is all. The recipe made so much sense that it was the first thing I made. It's easily the best mushroom broth in the world, but these guys also include...
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